Alpha Hydroxy Acids    

 Seems like the term "alpha hydroxy acid" comes up whenever skin care is mentioned. AHAs have truly gone underground. Few acne skin care product boasts that it contains AHAs. Thats where Sharkne comes in to play with its high quality anti-acne AHA products. Have you ever wondered what they are, what they actually do, if they are safe, how to use them safely or if they are right for you?

WHAT ARE AHAs?

Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) is a blanket term for a variety of fruit acids such as Glycolic, Citric, Lactic, Malic and Tartaric. These acids, when used correctly, help to smooth the skin, enhance the effects of other skin rejuvenation treatments, keep problem skin under control, attract moisture to the skin, even texture and complexion of skin, clear the skin, and reverse some of the effects of UV damage. They can be used to achieve these goals over a period of time or in quick sessions.

When included in a product at an effective concentration AHAs help disintegrate the "glue" that hold dead, dry skin cells to the surface of the skin. By doing so, the epidermis is exfoliated leaving a silky texture. Removal of this external barrier enables easier, deeper penetration of other skin treatments as well.

WHERE DO AHAs COME FROM?

Each acid is derived from a different source. While all AHAs share a similar molecular structure, their differences become relevant as to how each is used. Glycolic acid, for instance, is typically used for skin rejuvenation. Citric acid helps work as an antioxidant and promotes the production of collagen. These are a few of the most common AHAs used today:

GLYCOLIC ACID - CITRIC ACID  - LACTIC ACID - MALIC ACID -TARTARIC ACID

• GLYCOLIC ACID
  
  Most people hear the term AHA and immediately think of glycolic acid. This is certainly the most commonly used member of the AHA family for skin rejuvenation. Glycolic acid comes from sugar cane and can also be made synthetically. Its small molecular size allows it to penetrate the skin more easily, which contributes to its effectiveness. Glycolic acid works in a number of ways, primarily through its exfoliation properties. Glycolic acid helps dissolve the “glue” that holds the skin cells together. This leads to exfoliation. In addition, glycolic acid helps reduce the surface skin oils and can help remove blackheads and other skin impurities as well as smooth out fine wrinkle lines. Other benefits of glycolic acid include it’s moisturizing ability; the potential for it to help bleach unwanted skin discoloration; and its ability to help draw other skin treatments more deeply into the skin. Glycolic acid is also thought to help stimulate collagen production within the dermis to some degree. This acid helps reduce the build up of excess dead skin cells. Mainly derived from sugar cane juice, it is also used to adjust the pH in products.
  
  
• CITRIC ACID
  
  Citrus fruit serve as the source of this skin rejuvenating AHA. While Vitamin C tends to be considered a class of its own, it does technically belong in the AHA category. Citric Acid, or Vitamin C, acts as an antioxidant as well as helps stimulate collagen fiber production within the dermis. It also tends to have a weak activity helping bleach unwanted skin discoloration that often accompanies the aging skin process. Exfoliation is not its main function and realistically should not be considered an exfoliator. Natural alpha hydroxy acid found in citrus fruits. It is a gentle exfoliator for skin.
  
  
• LACTIC ACID
  
  Lactic acid comes from sour milk. An ideal skin softener, lactic acid is frequently used by dermatologists to cut through thick, rough skin. Lactic acid works both as an exfoliator as well as helps hold water within the skin. Dermatologists originally used it as a skin rejuvenation AHA until studies showed that glycolic acid gave superior results for this use. Lactic acid may be combined with other AHAs to help boost product effectiveness. Obtained from molasses through an exclusive anaerobic bio -fermentation process. This process yields a high purity lactic acid, which is of great value in retexturizing the skin surface and stimulating cell renewal.
  
  
• MALIC ACID
  
  This is a fruit derived AHA usually made from unripe apples and green grapes. While it has no obvious benefits for skin treatments, it has been suggested it may help increase oxygen supply to the muscles.
  
  
• TARTARIC ACID
  
  This is actually a by-product of the fermentation process that takes place while making wine. Tartaric acid comes from apples and is used to promote the texture and tone of the skin.
  
  

AHA Combinations

While Malic and Tartaric Acids may not be widely as a main ingredient, there are many brands that use a combination of AHAs in their ingredients. Sharkne incorporates multiple alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric) with beta hydroxy acid in their 3-step systems. AHA incorporates both glycolic acid and lactic acid to slough off the rough outer layer of the skin, revealing newer, youthful skin under the surface.

SAFETY FIRST?

AHAs are safe when used with caution and according to directions. The amount of AHA in the product and the pH are the determining factors of a product’s strength and irritation you may experience. Don´t forget this is an acid we are discussing-too much can cause a burn.

When using AHA-containing products purchased at the drug, grocery, or department store, the percentages are generally going to be negligible. The average AHA you may come across will be in the 3% range. If you are entering into a regimen that is more goal and rejuvenation based, there will be an option of strengths to choose from. It is important to start at the lowest strength and work up to the highest, slowly. Trust me, it is not a race to move up to the highest percentage of acid. Skin rejuvenation is a long-term commitment and if the skin is not acclimated to the product slowly, irritation will follow.

There has been a trend for some companies or physicians to offer extremely high concentrations of glycolic acid, 40% and up. Often this is being done on the internet. Some are promoting home peel kits. We have even received some calls from frantic consumers who have used such products and want to know what do do now that they are having serious side effects. These are products that can have significant side effects such as burning, temporary or permanent skin discoloration and even scarring. You cannot be too careful of what you are buying.

Exfoliation due to any product, including AHAs, causes the skin to be more susceptible to the elements and must be protected. Sun protection is always important. When you are using an exfoliating agent it becomes mandatory! You may also notice that your skin requires additional moisture. If this is the case, try using our cream based AHA (in case you’re not) or you may apply a plain moisturizer over your AHA product such as the Sharkne Toner.


We receive a lot of inquiries about the use of AHAs during pregnancy. In general, AHAs are typically considered safe to use while pregnant or nursing. As always, it is a good idea to discuss your use of all products with your doctor during this special time.

ARE AHAs RIGHT FOR YOU?

If you feel that your skin is looking dull, lifeless or uneven, using an AHA product may benefit you. As the skin ages, it can lose that lustrous youthful glow. Using an AHA can quickly restore a fresh, healthy appearance.  If you have a sensitive skin condition such as rosacea, you may find that AHAs are not appropriate for your skin as they may increase your redness and/or cause stinging. However, many rosacea patients actually have oily, tougher skin and can tolerate the use of these products. In that case, they can be beneficial for both oil reduction, pore cleansing as well as provide their rejuvenation benefits. If you are using any prescriptions that affect your skin or suffer a specific skin condition such as Rosacea, be sure to check with your prescribing physician.

Besides acne, AHA products are also great for softening rough elbows, knees, hands and feet.

AHAs can help to enhance other treatments such as lightening therapies as well. By ridding the skin of dead cells, the Sharkne treatment product is able to reach the site where it is needed without unnecessary interference.

GLYCOLIC ACID - CITRIC ACID  - LACTIC ACID - MALIC ACID -TARTARIC ACID